Re: Guide to Little Manila
Did you know that over 16,000 Filipinos make their home here in Jersey City…that’s more than in Manhattan! Little Manila is a vibrant community with two central sites one in Journal Square and the other slightly south in the Greenville District. You’ll find a fantastic selection of inexpensive Filipino restaurants, famous food chains, bakeries, and the largest Filipino owned grocery store on the east coast. As I am always on the lookout for tasty treasures, I went out in search of the house specialty at each establishment. Bring your wallet and a big appetite.
First off to Newark Avenue where you will find a nice density of Filipino restaurants within a few block radius and only four quick blocks from the Journal Square PATH station.
Casa Victoria offers a glimpse of the Philippines, with inexpensive Turo Turo (point-point) style buffet dining, Filipino products, wonderful baked goods and even some clothing. Just walk up to the counter and point at the selections you’re interested in. House Specialty: Chicken Empanadas - meat pies and Pork Siopao - pork buns. I opted for the Siopao, a substantial savory steamed dumpling filled with sweet pork. These Siopao are rumored to be the best in town.
Next stop Max’s of Manila a famous chain with its first east coast location in the heart of Journal Square. They serve reinterpreted classic Filipino dishes like Kare Kare - oxtail stew, Pancit - assorted noodle dishes & Lumpia - the Filipino version of an eggroll, in a modern stylish setting. House Specialty: Max’s Signature Fried Chicken. I ordered a half fried chicken, which arrived with a crispy crust, tender, and glistening in a thin sheen of oil. It was served with a delightful mild flavored tomato jelly masquerading as ketchup.
A staple in the community since 1971, Phil-Am Food and Grocery is a wonderful store with a massive selection of Filipino products, fresh fish, produce and meats, along with their own Turo Turo counter that features a wide range of Viand Ulam -main dishes that comes with rice and Merienda - snacks that are available for takeout. House Specialty: Chicken Empanadas. These savory treats were loaded with a mixture of chicken, raisins, carrots, peas, and potatoes. The empanadas were light; the filling had an essence of sweetness, a nice harmony of savory and sweet.
I stopped for a sugary interlude at Red Ribbon Bake Shop, another popular Filipino chain with a location here in Jersey City. Brimming with colorful cakes and desserts, this place is eye candy for the soul. They also have a selection of light meals and snacks, like Baked Macaroni, Pancit Palabok - noodles with pork and smoked fish flakes, Binuguan - pork stew, and even Chicken Teriyaki. House Specialty: Mango Cake. Sadly, they were out of their famous Mango Cake when I was there…so I opted for the Mango Cheesecake. It was incredibly light and not too sweet with a thick graham cracker crust, topped with a mango puree and cherries.
Just across the street you will find Casa Manila where home cooked Filipino food is served Turo Turo style. They have a tremendous selection of prepared dishes, desserts and plenty of seating. House Specialties: Chicken Adobo - cooked in vinegar with garlic and bay leaves and their Kare Kare - a mixture of stewed oxtail traditionally made with beef tripe, mixed with onions and tomatoes in a peanut oil.
There are two outposts of Fiesta Grill. The first located at 655 Newark Avenue offers fabulous Turo Turo style dining; but if you are looking for a more formal experience, then head to 819 West Side Avenue where they have a spacious dining room and ballroom dancing on the weekends. House Specialties: Crispy Pata - fried pork knuckles, BBQ, and La Paz Batchoy - a noodle soup made with pork organs, crushed pork cracklings, shrimp, vegetables, in a chicken broth. I tried three dishes: Pork Adobo - large chucks of pork stewed in an aromatic vinegar sauce. It was accompanied by Mechado - large chunks of braised beef nestled in smoked tomato gravy with green and red peppers, and lastly Pansit Sotanghon - a cellophane noodle dish made from soy beans that are sautéed with meat and vegetables.
For over three decades the Philippine Bread House has been a staple in the community, and a highlight for those craving freshly baked breads. The smell of yeast and the dizzying array of colorful confections made this stop in particular oodles of fun. House Specialties: Pandesal and Ensaymada. I decided to try both. Pandesal are small yeast raised rolls which I managed to purchase just as they were taken out of the oven (8 pieces for $1.50). They were light and fluffy with a slight sweetness, I had to restrain myself from not consuming them all in one sitting. Ensaymadas are similar to a brioche, lightly coated in butter, dusted sugar and topped with cheese shavings. I tried both the regular as well as the Macapuno, which was supposed to be filled with coconut but in all honesty; I could not detect any difference between the two.
Right next to the Philippine Bread House is the American Pinoy Food Mart. This is a small but wonderful Filipino grocery offering all of the necessities, along with fresh produce, and baked goods.
Little Quiapo is located in the same parcel as American Pinoy Food Mart; this tiny restaurant packs a big punch. House Specialties: Breakfast Silogs: eggs with rice and assorted meats, as well as their Palabok. As it well past my breakfast time, I opted to try the Palabok, a robustly flavorful noodle dish coated in an orange fish sauce topped with crispy smoked fish flakes, green onions and hard boiled eggs.
From Newark Avenue you will need to head southwest to West Side Avenue where you will find the second cluster of reasonably priced Filipino restaurants and shops. First up, Christine’s Bake Shop where you will find Tarts, Pastillas, Polvoron or Shortbread, assorted rolls, Brazo de Mercedes a fluffy meringue rolled with lemon custard, along with a bevy of delicious cakes and pies. House Specialties: Mango Cake and Ensaymada.
Continuing south along West Side Avenue you will encounter Mayon Grill which serves a very tasty Palabok - noodle dish, Squid with oyster sauce and Adobo Chicken - chicken in a vinegar sauce. Turo Turo style dining, gives you the opportunity to sample a variety of dishes. House Specialty: Turon - Banana Fritter.
Just down the street you will find the newly opened Side Grill with home cooked Filipino food served Turo Turo style in a contemporary setting. From whole fried fish, to BBQ, Embotido - pork meatloaf to a grand selection of breakfast Silogs - eggs with rice and assorted meats, and even a steak burger…this restaurant has options to please everyone. House Specialty: Galungong - Whole Fried Tilapia.
Victory Diner is a small restaurant serving buffet style Filipino dishes featuring Fried Chicken, Crispy Pata - fried pork knuckle, BBQ, Lapaz Batchoy - a noodle soup, Tapsilog - garlic fried rice served with a fried egg, and Sisig - a minced pork dish. House Specialty: Fried Chicken.
Continuing south you will find Apollo Fast Food and Grocery a lively restaurant with both Turo Turo style dining; and a small grocery in the back which is stocked daily with local and imported products. Apollo offers a large selection of Filipino dishes including Kalderetang Baka - beef stew, Kare Kare- an oxtail stew in a peanut sauce, and Sisig - minced pork dish. House Specialty: Kare Kare.
Rowena’s Delight and Cake House has two locations. At 444 West Side Avenue you will find a huge buffet of Filipino delicacies including her much sought after BBQ, Kare Kare - oxtail stew, Fried Chicken, Crispy Pata - fried pork knuckle, Lechon Kawali - deep fried pork belly served with a tasty liver sauce and Pancit Palabok- a pork and noodle dish. House Specialty: Lechon Kawali. The crispy pork belly was tender accompanying it was a delicious tangy sauce comprised of liver and onions. Just a block away is Rowena’s Bakery, where the intoxicating smell of freshly baked goodies made me giddy. The bakery provides the restaurant with some terrific treats, but at the bakery there’s an abundance of sweet and savory options. House Specialty: Pandesol and Siopao - steamed pork bun. The Siopao was light, and the pork filling melded sweet and savory perfectly on my palate.
Heading one block west to Mallory Avenue you will find three more great Filipino options. Café Manila II is a small restaurant best known for their Silogs, which is a breakfast comprised of rice, fried egg and is often accompanied by a meat. Silogs are served all day long, and Turo Turo dining is available on the weekends. House Specialty: Silog.
Just down the street is Blue Ribbon Kitchen offering Filipino food Turo Turo style dining. Best known for their Miki Bihon - a delicious thick stir fried noodle dish with vegetables and meat; and their Quekiam, ground pork and vegetables wrapped in a sheet of bean curd then deep fried until golden brown, Fried Chicken, and Crispy Pata - fried pork knuckle. House Specialty: Miki Bihon.
The next to last stop on our Filipino tour is Phil Farms Grocery a wonderful store offering a wide variety of imported essentials, along with fresh produce, baked goods and sea food. Stop by and stock up!
Heading back to the Grove Street District we conclude our tour with BBQ at Legal Beans. There you will find a bevy of Filipino dishes, such as Pork Liempo - grilled pork belly, Dinuguan - a blood pudding, chicken and pork BBQ, and Kare Kare - oxtail stew, in addition to traditional American Southern Style BBQ. Best of all …pork lovers unite every weekend to delight in a whole roasted pig. House Specialty: Lechon Baboy- whole roasted pig.
Let the adventure begin...
Getting Around by Public Transportation
1. Arrive at Journal Square PATH Station to begin Tour. Walk 4 blocks north on JFK Blvd. to Newark Ave., then turn right on Newark Ave.
2. Journal Square PATH Station to West Side Avenue – Take the number 80 Bus behind PATH Terminal.
3. From West Side Avenue to Mallory Avenue – Walk one block West on Communipaw Ave., then turn left.
4. From West Side Avenue to Division Street – Take the number 80 Bus to Newark Avenue and Division Street. It is a 13 block walk to the Grove Street PATH Station.